Goat bliss: Open Creamery Day at Painted Pepper Farm

Here’s a delicious activity for this weekend: Painted Pepper Farm, in Steuben (that’s north of the Schoodic Peninsula), is the source of what I think is to-die-for gelato (try the lemon zest topped with blueberries), made from Nigerian goat milk. Saturday  (that’s tomorrow) is Open Creamery Day, and the farm is welcoming visitors, especially families, with music, storytelling, dancing, a kids’ fun run, and face painting, along with the opportunity to visit the dairy and see the newborn goat kids.

Of course, the farm will be selling its delicious yogurts (honey ginger, mmmm), cheese, fudge, and gelato as well as its other treats. During the summer, you can also purchase the farm’s products at local farmers’ markets, as well as on site. Taste, and you’ll quickly understand why this small, family-run saltwater farm has won so many awards for its products.

Tasty tour

Gelato. Yogurt. Cheese. Meats. Fudge. Samplings and sales, as well a farm tours are promised at Painted Pepper Farm’s Open Creamery Day on Sunday (Oct. 12).

Now, this is the Nigerian goat farm that produces a lot of products I’ve previous raved about: a to-die-for lemon zest gelato and chevres, incredible yogurts in more the European tradition, delish granola, organic maple syrup, plentiful preserves and… you get the idea. If you’re anywhere near Steuben, this should be a fun and flavorful afternoon. The farm is open noon to 4 p.m.

Steuben Gems

First, let’s get the pronunciation right, it’s stewBEN. Next, let’s nail down its location: It straddles Route 1, wedged between Gouldsboro (Schoodic Peninsula) to the south and Milbridge to the north. Now, here’s why it’s worth noodling off Route 1 to find it.

Previously I posted about the Painted Pepper Farm, a family-owned organic farm raising Nigerian goats and making amazine yogurts, ice creams/gelattos, jams and other delicious products. That’s one reason.

Here’s another: Wildflour Bakery. It’s on the Village Rd., which loops off Route 1 on the ocean side. It’s only open 8 a.m. to noon on Saturdays. It may open another day, but that’s not planned. Auto mechanic-turned baker Rich Chevalier turns out creative breads, muffins, English muffins and–you know I’m a chocolate-chip-cookie-aholic right?–some of the BEST chocolate-pecan cookies I’ve tasted. Of course, I did manage to get them right out of the oven, so they were all goey and melty.

Also on the Village Rd. is The Shaw Place Antiques, in the barn of the town’s second-oldest home. It’s filled with not only bona fide antiques, but also Jan Whelan’s hand-knitted sweaters, all made from magnificent yarns. Her ancestors were 15th-century British wool merchants, so she figures it runs in the family. Jan also know the region’s deep history, and delights in sharing it. Check out the guest register: Shoppers have included Robert Redford and Tom Selleck. Oh, by the way, these sweaters aren’t inexpensive.

Veer off the Village Rd. onto the Rogers Point Road to find the first of two woodworkers worth a visit. Arthur Smith is master of chainsaw carving. He’s a gifted folk artist who looks at tree, and instead of seeing firewood, sees an animal, perhaps an eagle or great blue heron or wolf. His wife, Marie, paints his works in realistic colors, and she also weaves baskets reflecting her Native American heritage.

Return to Route 1 and head down Pigeon Hill Rd. to find Ray Carbone, who is to fine woodworking as Arthur is to folk craft. He also crafts stone and bronze sculptures and birdbaths. Beautiful work.

Hungry? Country Charm is just down the road a piece. Doesn’t look like much from the outside, but the inside has, well, country charm. At least in the first dining room; the others are purely functional. The food is classic Down East family fare: inexpensive, big portions and damn good fish ‘n chips and chowders.

Walk it off in the Petit Manan section of the Maine Coastal Islands National Wildlife Refuge, at the end of the road. It’s renowned for birdwatching, but it’s simply a beautiful spot to take a walk, and from the tip, on a clear day there are fine views of Petit Manan Light.

Lemon Zest Ice Cream

You must try this. You simply must. It’s so clean, crisp, creamy and–surprise–it’s made from the milk of Nigerian goats.

I first tasted Painted Pepper Farm’s Nigerian goat yogurt while staying at a B&B in Bar Harbor, and it zinged me tastebuds to attention with its fresh tang. Then I found it at the Bar Harbor Farmer’s Market, and of course purchased the plain. Later, I found maple cream and honey ginger flavors at Royal River in Yarmouth.

Finally, I made it to the farm itself, in Steuben. A tiny self-serve farm store is stocked with all the farm’s products: more yogurts, granola, maple syrup, maple-roasted nuts, organic preserves, chevre and the ice cream, in mocha cream and lemon zest flavors. But I had no way to keep it cold.

The next day, armed with a cooler and ice, I headed to the Bar Harbor Farmers’ Market and purchased the lemon zest flavor. And fresh strawberries. Together, well let’s just say I’m salivating as I write this and planning a return to purchase more. Now this stuff isn’t cheap–Painted Pepper is a small family farm, and the products are organic, and the goats are rare–but for a special splurge, it’s a treat.

Portland pig out

My foodie friend E visited Portland for a quick overnight, and I made it my mission to cover as many Portland food highlights as possible, between her arrival at 1:30 p.m. and my needing to hit the road by 8 a.m.

We began with French fries at Duckfat, crossed the street to peruse (and buy) books at Rabelais, grabbed a cookie (okay, three) at Two Fat Cats Bakery (part of the Fore Street empire), moseyed through Miccuci’s, then after checking in at the Portland Harbour Hotel, walked down to Browne Trading Co. to purchase a bottle of wine to accompany the herbed goat cheese from Painted Pepper Farm that E had purchased at the Bar Harbor Farmers Market.

Quick aside: Painted Pepper Farm, in Steuben, makes yogurt and goat cheese from its herd of Nigerian goats as well as organic maple syrup and granola. If you get the opportunity, taste these products. The yogurts are especially delicious, more in the European style, with quite a tang. The honey ginger and the maple cream are both exceptional; and the plain is simply lovely drizzled over fresh fruit. I’ve found it at farmers markets in the Acadia region as well as at health food stores in various locations, including Rising Tide, in Damariscotta, and Royal River, in Yarmouth.

After our wine and cheese, we tromped up to Five-Fifty-Five for a 6 p.m. reservation. Chef Steve Corry is one of Portland’s best; he’s been a James Beard nominee and he’s won Best New Chef distinction from Food & Wine. His menus are fresh, creative and fun, and the food is fabulous.

Although we’d originally considered the tasting menu (5 courses for $55–555, get it?), instead we created our own, sharing two small plates and two savory plates and a dessert, all accompanied by a nice Vouvray. Out first came a basket of sourdough bread and foccacia, with chive butter. I think that disappeared within five minutes, although we both had vowed not to fill up with bread.

Next came the small plates: First, wild smoked mackerel, with heritage bacon lardon, paprika deviled egg and radish frisee salad. This was a composed plate, with each component distinct. While the flavors of each stood out on their own, when blended, the result was sublime. Second was a braised veal shank tartlet made with fresh rosemary-scented chevre, flaky pastry crust, Fishbowl farm’s spicy greens and trio of spring onions. Oh my! This was so melt-in-the-mouth delish. Just thinking about it makes me smile and salivate.

For our savory plates, we chose 555’s renowned lobster mac and cheese–renowned for a reason. Corry once told me that he thinks of this as a winter dish, but every time he takes it off the menu, he has to bring it back due to demand. You bet I’ll demand it again, even if it’s 90 degrees and humid. A bit lighter, but no less delicious was the spring vegetable risotto. And while, yeah, it sounds like a carb-heavy meal with two starches, I’d order it all again.

After dinner, we waddled down Congress Street and strolled into Others, Brad McCurtain’s coffee/tea/sweets/gelato shop. Brad roasts his own coffee, makes the gelato, makes it a practice to employee those in need and donates all profits to local causes. And yeah, that gelato is mighty fine.

Before hitting the road home this morning, I introduced E to Becky’s for breakfast, which she cooed would become a must-stop whenever she’s in town. (and note: Becky’s now has a take out window open for late-night munchies–to 3 a.m.!). A quick return to Miccuci’s for some of baker Stephen Lanzalotta’s amazing bread, and my work was done, until next time–let’s see, Fore Street, Evangeline, Hugo’s, Cinque Terre, Ribolitta and–oh Portland has so many fine restaurants, and of course she must taste an Amato’s Italian and Little Lad’s popcorn and Norm’s mashed potatoes and…