New Year’s Eve X 2

Can’t get enough of that New Year’s Eve midnight joy? Experience it twice, in Eastport.

The first city in the U.S. to see the sun rise drops the ball, err make that sardine and maple leaf, twice, once each.

See, it’s like this. Eastport shares much history and culture with St. Andrews, NB, Canada, its neighbor across Passamaquddy Bay. St. Andrews is in the Atlantic time zone. So, at 11 pm Eastern time, which is midnight St. Andrews time, a giant maple leaf drops from the top floor of the downtown Tides Institute (okay, it’s only three stories, but it works). Then, one hour later, when it’s midnight eastern time, down comes the sardine, a symbol of the seaport’s heritage. New Year’s Eve in Eastport? Why not, it’s twice the fun.

Eastport news and notes

Every time I cross the causeway from Pleasant Point to the island (yes, Eastport is an island), I wonder whether I’ll be encouraged or discouraged by what’s on the other side. The city’s fortunes seem to cycle between hope and despair, but its promise, its architectural gems, and its smack dab on the water location are quite seductive.

I hit the ground running with fewer than 24 hours to see and do Eastport; thank goodness it’s the smallest city (yup, not only is it an island, it’s officially a city) in Maine. When I caught sight of the old Irving station, now an abandoned site,  nearby empty storefronts, and plentiful For Sale signs, I thought despair. Then I arrived downtown and was encouraged by my finds.

• The Pickled Herring: No fried fish in sight at this most unEastport, most unDowneast of restaurants. A welcome addition, and a welcome replacement of El Sardina Loca, which previously occupied this site. Big windows, wooden floors, high ceilings, and a wood-burning oven from which creative pizzas and grilled poultry and meats are fired. I had the carmelized onion, blue cheese, and walnut pizza: great flavor, but crust wasn’t crisp. It came with a mixed greens house salad dressed with a nice herbal vinaigrette and a serving of the house focaccia. Nice selection of wines, and from all reports, excellent martinis, too.

• Quoddy Bay Lobster: Another new and welcome addition to downtown Eastport. This classic take-out lobster (and more) shack has umbrella tables on the harbor. I just missed it being open, but locals sing its praises. The lobster roll ($12 for 1/4 lb. meat) earns raves. Plenty of other choices here, from soups and salads to rolls and wraps, and of course lobster dinners. On a clear day, I can’t think of a better place to go.

• Tides Institute: This museum-in-the-making celebrating the arts and cultural heritage of the Passamaquoddy Bay region (both sides of the border) gets more impressive each time I return. It’s also the driving force behind Culture Pass, an online resource and guide to regional cultural and tourism resources. Be sure to check it out when visiting the region, so you don’t miss any special events.

• Art Galleries: Eastport’s Main Street is looking better and better, as more galleries and studios open. Sure, some boarded-up buildings remain, but bright spots such as The Commons, Eastport Gallery, Eastport Breakwater Gallery, Port O’Call, and Kitty Butterfield made browsing downtown fun.

Other positive developments include the new Passamaquoddy Bay Symphony Orchestra and plans to renovate and restore a waterfront commercial building into a hotel.

Hope springs eternal in Eastport. Bravo to that.

New Year’s Eve: Celebrate the sardine

At the stroke of midnight on New Year’s Eve in The Big Apple, they drop a glittery ball on Times Square. Big Whoppie (and I’m not talking pie).

Way, way down east in Eastport, Maine, they drop both a sardine and a maple leaf from the from the roof of the Tides Institute and Museum of Art building on Bank Square.

Let me clarify: In deference to any Canadians in the crowd or those who might be watching from Deer Island or Campobello Island, across Passamaquoddy Bay, the maple leaf will drop at midnight Atlantic time (11 p.m.). The sardine, will drop at midnight Eastern time.

“We have an 8-foot scale model of the Atlantic Herring that will be lowered from the third story window,” says Hugh French, Tides Institute director. The sardine, technically known as the Atlantic Herring, is the symbol of Eastport, the easternmost city in the country.

This year’s Sardine and Maple Leaf, both hand crafted by sculptor Dave Schaefer, of East Machias, will be decked out in coppery digs to celebrate the ongoing restoration of the Tides Institute’s new cooper roof.

Celebrate the occasion at one of Eastport’s local watering holes: the Wa-Co Diner (pron. Wacko), Happy Crab, Pickled Herring, or Rose Garden.

It’ll be a ball; you can bank on it, and that’s no fish story.

Border patrol

The logistics aren’t easy, but the rewards are rich for the second annual Two Countries, One Bay, Art Studio Tour, Sept. 20-21. More than 50 artists and artisans, along with regional cultural organizations and museums in waaaayyy Down East Maine (Lubec through Calais) and New Brunswick, Canada (St. Stephen, St. Andrews, Campobello and Deer Islands, St. George), are participating in this two-day arts extravanganza.

A bright spot in downtown Lubec

This region, surrounding the tidal wonder of Passamaquoddy Bay provides plenty of fodder for artists. Islands, cliffs, crashing surf and churning waters, whales and sea birds, lighthouses and buoys, small towns, undeveloped wilderness: it’s all here, magical, mystical, inspiring, and in many ways and places, accented by a simplicity reminiscent of a gentler era. Whenever I travel here, I feel lighter, less burdened by day-to-day worries and more keen on noticing the little things.

On this side of the border, primary organizer is the Tides Institute and Museum of Art, located in a renovate bank in Eastport. Owner/director Hugh French, an Eastport native, is the driving force behind the Tides and its goals to build significant cultural collections and to produce new culturally important works. The focus is on works by artists and photographers associated with Maine and Maritime Canada, so this project is a good fit.

Brochures map the route and detail the participating studios, which include painters, printmakers, fiber artists, stained glass creators, sculptors, jewelers, Native American beadwork and basketry, and more. Many of the artisans will also be demonstrating their work. The tour runs 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. (EDT and AT) both Saturday and Sunday; just remember that the clock changes every time you step over the border.

Good thing the tour runs two days: Covering the territory involved involves bridges and ferries to offshore islands, passing through the international border, navigating backroads and small communities. Trust me, if you’re willing to make the journey, and if the weather cooperates, there are few better ways to spend an early autumn weekend. Book a room in Lubec, Eastport, or St. Andrews, eat salmon and lobster, breath in that salty air, kick back and enjoy. Oh yeah, and return with a unique souvenir.