Apres-ski bliss

Sometimes I’m so spoiled. During my recent ski trip to Whistler, the snow Gods weren’t smiling. Hot temps, melting snow and rain meant little terrain open for spring skiing: even the glaciers were closed due to unstable conditions. So, yes, I skied in the rain, but then I made up for the misery with an apres-ski massage at the Spa at the Four Seasons Whistler (which is actually at the Blackcomb base).

Talk about bliss. It’s a small spa with a few-frills waiting room, but what it lacks in bling it makes up for with service. First I decompressed in the eucalyptus steam room, warming up for  the apres-ski  massage, which combined hot stones, deep massage and a foot mask; a trio that soothed the cricks of travel and skiing.

Whistler whirlwind tour

Within a mere 54 hours, or two and a quarter days, I traveled from Vancouver to Whistler, B.C., round trip aboard the Whistler Mountaineer scenic train, Ziptreked across raging Fitzsimmons Creek; skied Blackcomb; shopped the village from one end to the other; and toured the soon-to-open First Nations Cultural Center. And ate BC foods, especially salmon and cheeses, and drank BC wines from the Okanagan Valley. Whew.

While I wouldn’t advise anyone to do all this in such a whirlwind manner, I can recommend each of these activities. Let’s start with the choo choo, the Whistler Mountaineer. Excursion trains are so civilized, so relaxing, especially this one, which snakes its way up into the mountains passing a stunning landscape of island-studded waters, raging–in spring–whitewater rivers, soaring snow-topped peaks and through a tight and deep cavern.

Splurge on the observation car, with it’s curved glass-windowed top providing unobstructed views accompanied by breakfast and beverage service on the way up and a full, high tea on the return. The car attendants take pride in their work, enjoy their jobs and spread their enthusiasm, all while explaining the history, flora and fauna, and geology along the route.

When approaching a “Kodak” sight, one for which the engineer slows down the train to a crawl, head for the open-air heritage car for the best photo spot. Highlights include a spectacular canyon, a waterfall and, of course, the fjord, the southernmost glacial fjord in North America.

On the opposite end of the heartbeat scale is the Ziptrek tour–zipping across lines strung through a coastal rainforest, from treetop to treetop, mountain to mountain, far above rushing torrent of whitewater. I was strapped in via a harness that attached to the line, then wheeeeeee, off I zipped, dangling high above the river valley separating Whistler from Blackcomb mountains. Five zips, three hours, with plenty of down time waiting for others in the group to go. Would I do it again? Yes, but I’d probably opt for the high-energy, fear-factor tour with the longest line double the length of the longest I did. Then again…

As for skiing. Hey, it was late May. It had been close to 100 degrees–you read that right–the day before I uploaded the gondola and chairs in search of snow. Avalanche danger was high. It was raining. Buy hey, it was skiing, and there was plenty of snow up high on Blackcomb. Due to the risk of avalanche, not a lot was open, but it was enough to enjoy, despite the rain. And actually, considering everything, the conditions were pretty damn good. Of course, on adjacent Whistler Peak–which next year will be connected to Blackcomb via a peak-to–peak gondola strung along the world’s longest section of unsupported cable (gulp)–mountain bikers were strutting their tricks in the mud.

In June, the new First Nations, Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre is slated to open, honoring the Squamish and Lil’wat tribes. The architecture alone is worth a visit, now add a interactive exhibits, presentations, and a medicinal herbal garden tour.

Now, if you also want to raft, hike, play golf, bike… you’ll need more than 54 hours. That’s the problem with Whistler, there’s just too much to do in too little time.

Enough! (maybe…)

Yes, yes, I’m still skiing at Sugarloaf. And yes, the weather over the past week–temps in the 60s and sun–has surely taken a toll, but there’s still top to bottom skiing. And there’s plenty of snow–if you know where to look–although connecting it all sometimes takes a few creative moves.

I told myself today would be my last day. I took yesterday off, and given how hot it became, I expected it to be mushy today with gaping holes and rocks. Wrong. It got cold enough last night to set it up a bit, just enough for perfect spring mama-bear skiing–not too firm, not too soft. Moguls weren’t squishy. Sure there are bare patches and waterfalls running, but still plenty of snow, especially on the snowmaking trails: Nitro, Wedge, Hayburner, Upper Tote, Narrow Gauge. And there’s only a handful of people skiing, so it’s not getting too cut up.

As much as I’d like to ski tomorrow, it’s time to call it a season (although work requires I take a few runs at Blackcomb in May–I’ll report on that when I go).

Okay, bring on the tulips and daffodils. I’m ready. I think. Then again, maybe one more day…

The fat lady’s still singing

And man can that woman belt out a tune. Spent the morning skiing at the loaf, under bluebird skies and in temps that climbed into the 60s. It’s still phenomenal–with excellent cover on most. Sure, it’s getting soft, and yes bare spots are beginning to open and it’s wise to keep an eye out for rocks where cover is thin. BUT, we’re talking top to bottom, with the best conditions off the summit. Nitro, Powder Keg, Gondy, Face fields are all fab. Buckskin to Binder is holding up well–although when that iced-over water bar finally melts, that will do in the upper section.

Either pack a lunch for trailside or go for burgers on Bullwinkle’s deck. Both D’Ellies and Black Diamond Burritos are closed for the season. Of course, if you haven’t had your Bag burger yet…

So, no excuses. Leave work early, resist the urge to till the garden or shoulder the golf bag, instead grab those skis for another glorious weekend. It may be the final act, but the song’s far from over.

Rangeley ramblings

Scooted over to Saddleback for a few runs today: Delicious early-spring conditions, butter and suger corn, with a side of freeze-capped moguls and temps in the 40s to low 50s. Few folks skiing–it was almost too quiet.

Although I don’t mind T-bars, I’m thrilled that this one will be replaced next season with a fixed quad. That will open up the summit to far more folks, and with the addition of another double-black, it will make the terrain heading toward Muleskinner even better for experts. I skied America for the first time since it was widened, and what a change. I nominate it for National Scenic Byway status; widening opened the panoramic views west to Sunday River and Mt. Washington and north over the Rangeley Lakes. Wow.

Saddleback is closing Sunday; Sugarloaf is still aiming for May 4 or beyond. So resist the urge to store the skis and grab the clubs. You won’t regret it.

It’s true. It’s true…

Sunday River is installing a chondula from South Ridge to North Peak. Yeah, I know, a what? It’s a chairlift with occasional gondola cabins. According to Rivah wags, this is the first stage of repositioning the resort for four-season use (hiking, walking, biking…). Access will be year round.

It’s but one part of the $14 million upgrade. Also announced is the cutting of new trails on North Peak. And this is the first step toward providing night-skiing on North Peak. What resort spokespeople are referring to as 12-hour skiing could be available as early as next season, pending local approvals.

After years of benign neglect under ASC ownership, The Rivah is back. We luv ya Boyne.

Random pairings

Thanks to the tanking dollar against the rising pound and Euro, accents are plentiful on New England’s slopes, from the Eastern Europeans manning the lifts to the Brits skiing. Bretton Woods, N.H., is no exception. So, I wasn’t surprised, when I struck up a conversation on the Rosebrook Express chair, to hear what sounded like a British accent peppering the reply to my usual conversation opener: “Having a good day?”

I’ve met folks from Newfoundland to Alaska, Bosnia to New Zealand, and I’ve received insider tips from those chance chairlift meetings, but until yesterday, no one had ever replied to my “Where’s home?” question with “The Isle of Man.”

Whoa–I Googled the grade school geography files collecting dust in my brain: Great Britain, no; Ireland, no; Scotland, close; Wales, not really. Hmm, as familiar as I was with the name, I couldn’t pinpoint it on my inner-vision map.

“It’s way out in the Irish Sea,” he said. At least I was somewhat close in my mental ramblings.

Back in my room, I Googled my computer’s brain. Ahhh yes. The 227-square-mile Isle of Man is located between England, Scotland, Ireland and Wales (roughly midway between Liverpool, England, and Belfast, Ireland). It’s a self-governing kingdom with its own language (Manx) and currency, although English is the spoken language and the pound is accepted. Its parliament, called Tynwald, was founded by the Vikings 1,000 years ago. Who knew? Not me, but I’m intrigued enough to see if I can add it to a travel itinerary the next time I’m in the general area.

But it won’t be for skiing: It doesn’t have a ski resort.

Soak without getting soaked

BANFF, Alberta, Canada–With good reason, the Willow Stream Spa at the castle-like Fairmont Banff Springs hotel gets most of the ink when it comes to spa talk (I dished about that one previously), but for anyone seeking a soothing soak in an outdoor mineral pool with the Canadian Rockies as a backdrop, the historic Banff Hot Springs lets you soak without getting soaked (ditto for the concessioned spa at the same location).

First a little history: Although long known to native peoples, Banff’s hot spring was “discovered” in 1883 by railway workers building the trans-Canada line. They discovered the lower springs while prospecting on a day off, knew a good thing and filed a claim. A few months later, the upper springs were found. In those times, doctors often recommended visiting a mineral pool, so a big effort was made by the railway to attract tourists. When the government was faced with rival claims, it created the country’s first national park in 1885.

Okay, so much for history. Let me tell you what’s here, now. The current bath house dates from 1932 and is a federal heritage building crafted from rundlestone (from nearby Mt. Rundle) and hand-hewn logs. It houses a small gift shop, a restaurant, locker/changing rooms and an independent spa. Entry fee for the hot springs is $7.30 for adults; $6.30 for ages 3–17 or 65 and older; or $22.50 for a family of four, plus $3.40 for each additional family member. Towel or bathing suit rental is $1.90 (and you can rent a cool-looking, vintage 1920s-styled “heritage” suit). A locker is $1.

Given these prices, don’t expect fancy. The locker room is just that, a place to change. Don’t even plan on taking a leisurely shower afterward–the timed showers are too short to do much other than rinse.

Ahh, but step into the large hot mineral pool, gaze over at the mountains, or close your eyes and dream, and you could be in a frou-frou spa. It’s large enough for a leisurely paddle across. And if you work your way around the edges, you’ll find a few jets. In winter, there’s usually enough snow on the deck to permit a Nordic-spa type roll, if you want to shock your system.

Now here’s a hint: During ski season, go before 2 p.m. to avoid the apres-ski crowds.

Another plus: The hot springs are on a public bus route. About that spa: Pleiades Massage and Spa (1-866-760-2502) is another find for the budget conscious. A half -hour massage, reflexology or Reiki is $55, full hour is $85, 1.5 hours is $115; one-hour facial is $80, one-hour body treatment is $95, one-hour wrapture–aromatic steam, brief massage and wrap–is $80. All kinds of packages are available, too. I didn’t get a chance to indulge, but if I’d had the time, it would have made for a lovely way to spend an afternoon.

The ski report

If you live south of, say, Augusta, Maine, you’re likely experiencing that season known as “spring.” Up here in the north country, not. Our Sugarloaf house still has close to four feet in the yard, and the snowbanks still tower well over that. Which means, it’s still winter and the skiing goes on.

And it’s cold. Last two mornings temps have been below zero at 7 a.m., so I haven’t been too quick to head to the mountain, even though the U.S. Nationals are in progress. Today, temps are predicted to shoot up to the 30s–Wow! Heat wave–before it snows (again) tonight.

Yesterday all lifts were running, and the skiing was excellent. Once the bump runs soften, they too should be superb–plenty of snow covering them. Ditto for the Snowfields.

So, hold off on the golf clubs and the tennis racket, and get up here for a few more runs. Really, it doesn’t get much better. And the ‘Loaf is planning on staying open until May 4.

In the zone

You know how  I raved about Balnea, the Nordic-style spa in the Quebec’s Eastern Townships, well here’s another. The Zonespa, in St-Ferréol-les-Neiges, near Mt. Ste. Anne and about a 20 minute drive east of Quebec City, is a surefire way to relax after a day skiing at either Mt. Ste. Anne or Le Massif.

Although much smaller and less fancy than Balnea, the services are similar. It pampers guests with massages, facials and body treatments, and  it has a steam room, sauna, relaxation room, and hot tubs, but as a Nordic-style spa, it’s built on the therapeutic premise of alternating warm and cold treatments with rest. Again, that’s easy in summer, but in winter, when temperatures are in the single digits and snow is falling, embracing this ritual requires a good dose of fortitude.

It begins comfortably enough with 15-20 minutes of wet or dry heat, perhaps in the Finnish sauna, steam bath or outdoor hot pool or whirlpool. This warms the body and stimulates sweating. That’s followed by a system-shocking, gasp-producing 30- to 60-second cold immersion to increase both heartbeat and blood pressure and close the pores. This is accomplished by an invigorating roll in the snow or with a bracing shower, either indoors or accompanied by a plunge in an outdoor cold-water pool. It’s all worth it for the deep relaxation that occurs during the final stage of the cycle, a 15-minute rest in the solarium, a yurt or by an outdoor fireplace, during which the body returns to its normal rhythms. Then repeat, and repeat again over a three-hour period. Add on a one-hour massage for the ultimate meltdown.

The spa’s Café Tivoli serves pizzas, sandwiches and salads as well as pastries, smoothies and even beer, wine and espressos–just in case the cold isn’t stimulating enough.

Do make reservations. It’s a very popular spa-t (sorry, couldn’t resist).