Cheap Sleeps in the Kennebunks

You don’t have to be religious to book a room at the Franciscan Guest House. An easy walk to Lower Village and Dock Square (avoid parking hassles), the guest house, located on the grounds of the riverfront Franciscan Monastery, provides simple accommodations, with a few frills.

The guest house is located in a renovated former Catholic high school and outbuildings. While some stay here for religious reasons, guests of any faith are welcome.

I paid $69 for a room with a single queen bed, and that rate includes a full buffet breakfast, with dozens of breads and pastries, two hot entrees, cereals, fresh fruit, meats and cheeses. The room: vintage 1970s decor, with blond fake paneling, brown carpeting, synthetic patterned bed spreads, not-so-great art, TV, pine desk and bureau, full bathroom. All spotless, with a tinge of antiseptic aroma. Also available are a rec room, an outdoor pool, free wifi, and two computers available to guests. But hey, who needs fancy with this location.

The monastery was founded by Lithuanisan Franciscans, who fled war-torn Europe in 1947 and purchased the Tudor Great House and estate, originally landscaped by the Frederick Law Olmstead firm. Monks still reside in the mansion, which isn’t open to the public except for a seasonal gift shop and a modern chapel, attached.

A sneak peek toward Kennebunkport

The monastery’s 66 mostly wooded, riverfront acres are open to the public (no pets), providing a wonderful escape from the nearby hubbub. Paved, wheelchair- and stroller-accessible trails lace the grounds, which are peppered with shrines and an outdoor chapel. Don’t miss the eye-catching, recently restored, modern sculpture, created by Vytautas Jonynas for the Vatican Pavilion during the 1964-1965 Worlds Fair. A guide to the shrines is available in the gift shop or the Guest House for 50 cents B&W or $1.50 color.

This is an inexpensive place to stay, a great value with a wonderful place to walk or meditate. Another plus for guests, it’s an easy and pleasant walk (past the oh-so-haute White Barn Inn) to Gooch’s Beach.

Frost on the pumpkin

Tonight! A hard frost is predicted. It is shaping up to be an absolutely gorgeous fall weekend, sun and temps in the 60s during the day, chilly at night. The frost should jumpstart the foliage a bit; so far, at least along the coast, there’s only a first blush. Truly, a perfect weekend for the Common Ground Fair (see my earlier posting). If you can, go tomorrow, it’ll be less crowded.

Border patrol

The logistics aren’t easy, but the rewards are rich for the second annual Two Countries, One Bay, Art Studio Tour, Sept. 20-21. More than 50 artists and artisans, along with regional cultural organizations and museums in waaaayyy Down East Maine (Lubec through Calais) and New Brunswick, Canada (St. Stephen, St. Andrews, Campobello and Deer Islands, St. George), are participating in this two-day arts extravanganza.

A bright spot in downtown Lubec

This region, surrounding the tidal wonder of Passamaquoddy Bay provides plenty of fodder for artists. Islands, cliffs, crashing surf and churning waters, whales and sea birds, lighthouses and buoys, small towns, undeveloped wilderness: it’s all here, magical, mystical, inspiring, and in many ways and places, accented by a simplicity reminiscent of a gentler era. Whenever I travel here, I feel lighter, less burdened by day-to-day worries and more keen on noticing the little things.

On this side of the border, primary organizer is the Tides Institute and Museum of Art, located in a renovate bank in Eastport. Owner/director Hugh French, an Eastport native, is the driving force behind the Tides and its goals to build significant cultural collections and to produce new culturally important works. The focus is on works by artists and photographers associated with Maine and Maritime Canada, so this project is a good fit.

Brochures map the route and detail the participating studios, which include painters, printmakers, fiber artists, stained glass creators, sculptors, jewelers, Native American beadwork and basketry, and more. Many of the artisans will also be demonstrating their work. The tour runs 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. (EDT and AT) both Saturday and Sunday; just remember that the clock changes every time you step over the border.

Good thing the tour runs two days: Covering the territory involved involves bridges and ferries to offshore islands, passing through the international border, navigating backroads and small communities. Trust me, if you’re willing to make the journey, and if the weather cooperates, there are few better ways to spend an early autumn weekend. Book a room in Lubec, Eastport, or St. Andrews, eat salmon and lobster, breath in that salty air, kick back and enjoy. Oh yeah, and return with a unique souvenir.

Seeking Common Ground

It’s fay-uh season in Maine, and if you want a different take on the usual fair fare, head to the Common Ground Fair, Sept. 19-21, in Unity. Sponsored by the Maine Organic Farmers and Gardeners Association (MOFGA), it’s a celebration of rural life without the gliz, glitter, hype, carnival rides, or junk food. The last time we went, we squeezed our pickup between a battered Volkswagen bus and a gleaming Volvo wagon with two childseats. That, in a nutshell sums up the fair’s demographics (there are pigs, and yes, there’s lipstick!).

In addition to plentiful organic produce and food vendors (100-percent organic, at least 50 percent of ingredients sourced in Maine), the number and variety of offerings are overwhelming. Tents shelter crafts, folk arts and Native American arts, exhibits by social and political-action organizations, environmental activists and whole-life practitioners. There are spinners and stone-cutters, exhibits about sustainable energy and environmental concerns, a children’s area and youth enterprise zone.

Now add the talks, demonstrations and contests—for example, sheepdog demonstrations and donkey and mule shows; Growing Plums in Maine and Veganic Soil Maintenance; the Horseshoe Pitch Off and the Harry S. Truman Manure Pitch Off. The latter two events are conveniently held near the composting and recycling area. (Here’s a thought: perhaps Obama and McCain should compete, there’s a lot bs being tossed in the campaign; sorry, I digress).

Anyhoo, you get the idea, this fair is way cool, way green, and way fun.

A few notes: If you run on caffeine, drink up before entering the hallowed grounds. Don’t even consider bringing a pet. If driving, park nose in. Ride your bike to the fair, and you get valet parking and $1 off admission. Go hungry.

Chocoholic’s choice

Just back from nibbling my way through the first Mid-Coast Maine Wine and Cheese Festival, held at two Rockport locations, Cellardoor Winery’s retail shop and the State of Maine Cheese Co. Plenty of food fun, including tastings of cheeses, wines, chocolates, jams, sausages, smoked seafood products, and more.

I dutifully toured my way through all the vendors, but my faves (no surprise, here), were chocolate related. I’m a huge fan of Safe Harbor Confections, a Waldoboro chocolatier that dedicates a percentage of income, donated in product or cash, to animal-related causes. I love their salt caramels, and the raspberry truffles. And… mmmmm.

For truffle perfection, Dean’s Sweets wins for its stout truffle. Oh my! The bitterness of the stout (beer) brings out the bitterness of the chocolate, without being, well bitter. No sharp edge, just that sublime taste of dark chocolate with depth. Now, the tequila lime, the needhams (made with Cold River Vodka instead of mashed potates), the scotch, the cayene, and the ginger, and… well, let’s just say I spent a bit of time here immersed in quality control. Portland-based Dean’s only uses dark chocolate, and it doesn’t use nuts. The truffles are available at Rosemont Market, in Portland and Yarmouth, from the house by appointment, or via the internet.

Now I previously knew about Safe Harbor and Dean’s, but South Portland-based Nutmeg Foods new Coastline Chocolates were new to me, but one taste (then another, and, okay, another) of the Rivermill salted dark chocolate bar, and I’m a convert. I’ve always been a fan of the marriage of dark chocolate and salt, but usually it comes via chocolate-covered popcorn or potato chips. This is simply a bar accented with Maine sea salt. Not that the other bars I tasted weren’t delicious, but this one was a standout. Nutmeg Foods also makes a line of truffles, including one, Ned’s Red, sold only at the Cellardoor Winery.

Quite the delicious afternoon. Now, must exercise.

Make a difference, NOW

As the first reports begin to seep out of Galveston and Houston, it’s already evident that the damage is widespread. Ditto for Haiti and Cuba. You can make a difference. Make a donation to Doctors Without Borders or the American Red Cross or your favorite charity offering aid in these areas. Trust me, every dollar will help. Just do it. Now. Please.

Let’s talk leaves

As in foliage. According to the folks who study this stuff, thanks to our wet summer, Maine is expecting a grand foliage season, with vibrant color.

Early foliage, Grand Lake Stream, 2007

“With a few localized exceptions, the forest statewide is in good health, thanks to the abundant and relatively well-distributed rain we’ve had since spring,” said Bill Ostrofsky, a forest pathologist with the Department of Conservation, Maine Forest Service. “The great majority of hardwood trees have carried a full complement of healthy foliage, and appear to be on typical schedule for changing. Overall, I expect leaf coloration to be magnificent once again for this season.”

Best way to track that color is here. Now conventional wisdom says foliage usually peaks around Columbus Day, but that’s very early this year.I’m guessing the traditional foliage destinations—Rangely, Bethel, Greenville, and along the coast—will peak at least a week or two after that. Which means you may be able to snag a room at a decent rate.

A few more hints re foliage-related travel:

First, it’s still peak season in many places, which means peak rates. You’ll find less-pricey possibilities in the fringe towns and at the smaller properties without the marketing budgets or fancy web sites.

Second, because it’s peak season (at least through Columbus Day Weekend, and likely on weekends after that), make advance reservations for lodging and, if dining out is important to you, at restaurants, too.

Lose the crowds

We visited Bar Harbor and Acadia National Park yesterday, meeting friends at the Jordan Pond House for lunch (the salad with apples and cranberries is fabulous, and my foodie friend E gives high marks to the lobster stew) on the lawn (with tea and popovers, of course). It was a spectacular September day, and Bar Harbor was jamming. Two huge cruise ships and the usual bus tours dumped what seemed like gazillions of folks onto the island.

Now I often hear folks complain about how crowded Bar Harbor and Acadia are—and if you only hang out downtown or in the park’s icon sites, that’s true. But after lunch we walked out onto the carriage trails. Within five minutes of easy strolling from Jordan Pond House, we were alone in the park. We passed a few hikers early on, but we walked in solitude for 20 minutes or so, accompanied only by birdsong and the music of a rushing stream. Heaven.

And I know from previous visits, that a short walk from downtown Bar Harbor, and one can be in equally quiet sections of the park. Compass Harbor, site of George Dorr’s home (just a foundation, now) is an easy mile jaunt via sidewalk edging Main St./Route 3 from downtown. Or follow the Jesup Path and the Great Meadow Loop. Really, it’s quite easy to escape the crowds, if you’re willing to take a few steps off the pavement.

One last note about Jordan Pond House: If you’re traveling with dogs, you’re welcome to sit on the lawn. The staff even brings a bowl of water for your pooch. While we lunched, there were at least a dozen dogs at the tables surrounding ours (in addition to our two). And as long as your pet is leashed, it’s welcome on the trails (just bring a plastic bag for clean up, if necessary).

What’s black, then blue, then red all over?

Blueberry barrens, Deblois, Maine, in October.

Foliage Faves: Blair Hill Inn

Vermont gets all the press—but it also gets gazillions of leaf peepers. Here’s a place where you can enjoy the colors without the crowds. (The first in my leaf-peeper foliage faves postings)

Native Mainah

No it’s not easy to get to, but that’s what makes it so worth the effort. Greenville edges Moosehead Lake, that giant blue Rorschach blot in the wilds of northern Maine. It’s the frontier town before tar gives way to dirt, civilization to wilderness. Shops sell all manor of moosey merchandise, fishing and hunting are big biz. Set high on a hillside, just outside of town is a genteel country inn, the splurge-worthy Blair Hill Inn, an oasis of comfort, with excellent service and fabulous breakfasts.

And the views? Stupendous, especially during peak foliage, when the color-dappled mountains surrounding the 40-mile-long lake are reflected in its waters. This is God’s Country, and if you don’t believe me, mosey up to Kokadjo (population, not many) where a giant sign proclaims just that.

The region is laced with hiking trails and with opportunities for boating and paddling and moose spotting. Treat yourself to a cruise on the Katahdin, a retrofitted, early 20th-century boat that was previously used in in the lumbering industry. Or take a foliage flight with Currier’s Flying Service, a great way to view the cliffs of Kineo. Or book a moose safari or other adventure with Northwoods Outfitters.

Maynard's in Maine lodge

Now, if the Blair Hill Inn is out of range budget wise, not to worry, Greenville has plenty of wallet-friendly spots, too. Chalet Moosehead is a motel that’s right on the lakefront; the Pleasant Street Inn is a B&B that’s walkable to everything intown, including the lake; in nearby Rockwood is Maynard’s in Maine, an old-time classic—very rustic (in the Maine sense of the word, not the New York sense) lodge and cabins, with a restaurant (see photo) It’s not for everybody, but I love this place, and it’s pet friendly.