Maine Treasures: Acadia’s Oceanside Meadows

Waves lapping lulled me to sleep, and when I awakened this morning, gauzy curtains framed the ocean view from my third-floor room at Acadia’s Oceanside Meadows, one of Maine’s treasures. Really!

Situated on more than 200 acres of Schoodic Peninsula land that encompass seven varied habitats, from sand beach and salt marsh to forests and meadows, and comprising two early historical homes, this classic Maine inn is just the kind of place folks from away think of when they dream about Maine. From my bedroom window, all I see is a spruce lined point of land reaching out to sea and proteching the cove with its sand beach backed by dunes.

The inn fronts on a sleepy section of road that connects two lobstering villages: Prospect Harbor and Corea, and is only a few miles away from the Schoodic Point section of Acadia National Park. It’s land is contiguous to two giant sections of conserved lands, both surrounding heaths, one protected by a local land trust, the other part of the Maine Coastal Islands National Wildlife Refuge. Fifteen minutes up the road is the major section of that preserve, Petit Manan. And on the inland side of Route 1 is the Donnell Pond Public Reserved Land. It’s a region laced with two scenic byways, one Maine, the other National.

Getting the picture? This part of Maine is rural and undeveloped. It’s the Maine of author Louise Dickinson Rich, who wrote from her nearby farmhouse. It’s the Maine long favored by bird watchers and nature lovers. Sure, over in Winter Harbor is a historical cottage colony of the late-19th/early-20th century version of McMansions, sprawling grand homes most with a Philadelphia connection, but the world has yet to discover this special place.

Inn owners Sonja Sundararm and Ben Walters have filled the inn’s two adjacent buildings, one an 1860’s sea captain’s home, the other an 1820’s farmhouse, with antiques and family treasures that complement the setting. Nothing is frilly or overdone. Our room, built into the eaves, is light and bright, with floral wallpaper, painted country furniture and a simple white spread topped by a classic quilt on the bed. The bathroom is tiny, and in keeping with Ben and Sonja’s environmental stewardship, soaps are dispensed, not those ubiquitous tiny bottles that clutter landfills.

They’ve cut trails through the woods and meadows and created guides to flora and fauna in each of the habitats on the property. They’ve also turned the barn into a performance room, staging an arts series each summer with lectures and concerts. Last night, a speaker addressed global warming.

Sonja’s breakfasts are legendary and with good reason.

207 Maine: Local Choices

If you watch 207 on WCSH tonight, you’ll see me chatting about new editions of two of my Moon series guidebooks Coastal Maine and Maine, both published by Avalon Travel Publishing. Rob asked me for suggestions for getaway recommendations for this summer, and I wanted to elaborate.

1. Travel somewhere in Maine where you’ve never previously been. For many folks, that’s likely to be Aroostook County. It’s beautiful, spacious and the budget-friendly rates for food and lodging will make up for the gas costs. Way Down East is another good choice: Jonesport, Lubec and Eastport are Maine the way it used to be. Better yet, go in August for the Machias Wild Blueberry Festival–that alone is worth a trip.

2. Stay home and play tourist in your backyard. Now this is a real budget friendly choice. Draw a circle of, oh, say 20 to 50 miles around your home town and play day trips to all the places you’ve always said you’ll go, but have yet to visit: local historical society or specialized , perhaps quirky, museums, Audubon or Nature Conservancy preserves, land trusts, state parks; and treat yourself to a few special activities, perhaps a guided tour, a boat trip, or an afternoon at an amusement park with the kids.

3. Reverse the seasons. If you haven’t been to Bethel, Rangeley or Carrabassett Valley/Kingfield in summer, do so for the hiking, mountain biking, fishing, camping, boating and general good times.

4. Treat yourself to a say at a traditional Maine sporting camp, such as Libby‘s or Bradford Camps or one of the AMC’s properties, Little  Lyford or Medalwisla. Once you’re there, it’s cost controlled, as meals and lodging are included in the rate. Most camps are strings of cabins edging a lake or stream, with meals taken in a central lodge. It’s rustic, but not too much so–most have hot showers and flush toilets and woodstoves for warmth on chilly nights. It’s a classic Maine experience that everyone should enjoy at least once (unless you don’t do rustic, than nooooo).

Boothbay Harbor: Chews News & More

We snuck down to Boothbay Harbor for a quick peek at Windjammer Days and to see what’s new and happening this season. Must say, the town looks mighty fine, better than it has in a long while, with plenty of fresh paint and bright flowers and inviting storefronts. Even better, the shopping and dining options have improved.

Quite a few new art galleries have opened, and those combined with the classics–Abacus crafts, Gleason Fine Art, Gold/Smith, Villiard Gallery–are turning the town into a far more interesting destination for art lovers. Sure, the touristy-trinket shops remain, but now there are other options. Quick update: The Palabra Shop isn’t planning on opening its museum of Moses bottles this season; that might change, but call if that’s your purpose in visiting. Now, if only the shops stayed open a bit later into the evening, most shopkeepers seem to follow the roll up the sidewalks at 5 p.m. theory here.

Boothbay Harbor has never been a dining destination. What, with what amounts to a two-month season, with a few weekends on either end, it’s hard for restaurants to retain staff. At some places, the owners obviously just don’t care. Food is usually passable, but eh. But there are a few spots are working seeking when you’re hungry.

Boathouse Bistro has a new chef (actually a former one from years ago is back). Food is vastly improved, and the tapas menu is just plain fun. We snagged a rooftop-deck seat for a fine view over the harbor and all the activity, then made a lunch of the hot and cold tapas choices. There also are sandwichs, salads, entrees and pizza, too. And yes, across the lane, the candlepin-style Romar Bowling Lanes keeps rolling along; talk about a time warp!

Ports of Italy remains the best finer-dining option in town, and the prices are lower than in past years; definitely a good thing. Other good bets: The Lobster Dock, for of course lobster, but also the crab cakes (object of a Throwdown with Bobby Flay); Baker’s Way, locally called The Doughnut Shop, for–duh–doughnuts, but also for, get this, Vietnamese foods, there’s even garden seating in back; the Boat Bar at the Chowder House, a local’s favorite, for burgers; and if you’re swinging over to East Boothbay, the East Boothbay General Store for light fare. And up Boothbay way, Bets Fish Fry is a classic for fish and chips, or if you’re craving something far more healthful, the cafe at the Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens is worth a trip. Chefs are the former owners of Blue Moon, which unfortunately, which has suffered since they’ve left.

By the way, photo above was shot from the front lawn of the Topside Inn, which tops the intown McKown Street Hill; very nice, very convenient, great breakfast. If you’re looking for something in the budget range, a few doors down, without the views but with classic 1950’s motel styling, is the Midtown Motel. Grab breakfast at the Ebb Tide, if you stay there.

Bulldozers! Dump trucks! Fire trucks!

Grab the kids and head for Oxford, Maine, next Saturday, June 28. It’s Dozer Day, a hands-on construction equipment expo with real-life grown-up Tonka Toys.

Kids — and their big folks — will be able to climb into excavators, bulldozers, cranes, graders, dump trucks and concrete trucks and see a fire truck and ambulance, too. Not only that, there will be heavy-equipment demonstrations, door prizes, a prize mine, Lego building-blocks competition, free coloring books and photo ops. Teens forced to accompany younger siblings can test the heavy-equipment simulator.

Even better, the first 350 kids will receive a free plastic hard hat (that’s kids, not you, dad) and an “operator’s license” for the day.

It’s all a benefit for a local independent elementary school, so prepare to shell out $10 for one, $15 for two, $20 for three or four or $25 for a family of five or larger. Dozer Day takes place at the Oxford County Fairgrounds, off Route 26, from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Rain date is Sunday.

News and chews: Newcastle Publick House

We dined with friends at the Newcastle Publick House, the latest restaurant to occupy the cursed site on Newcastle Square, where Route 1A curves down and over the bridge onto Damariscotta’s Main Street. This one might just be the exception.

It was packed last night, and it was easy to see why. The food’s good, the portions are decent and the prices are affordable. It’s pub fare that rises above the usual. Many of the foods are sourced locally–and these are noted on the menu. And the restaurant grills meats, seafood and veggies over a wood fire. Best of all, this chef obviously knows his way around the kitchen.

Our party of four had two orders of fish and chips, one order of bangers and mash, and one order of grilled scallops. All were perfectly cooked. The ale-battered haddock was light, the fish moist inside the crunchy coating; the fries crisp–okay, I like them this way, Tom thought they were overcooked. The bangers were three large imported Irish sausage accompanied by garlic mashed (really, more smashed) potatoes. The four wood-fire grilled scallops in a honey-butter sauce were accompanied garlic potato mash and the day’s grilled veggies. None of us left a morsel on our plates. While the desserts were tempting, we opted to head over to Round Top Ice Cream to test the gelatto instead (very good).

Servers are young and enthusiastic. There are a few service issues to work out–it seemed understaffed–but the place has been open only a few weeks, and again, it was packed. Better yet, these kids knew when they’d been away from a table for too long, and always apologized for the absence. It would also help if some sound-absorbing materials were added to the dining room–it’s quite loud, when busy; almost too loud for regular conversation. But then again, it’s a pub.

Nitty gritty details: It’s open daily for lunch and dinner, serving in the bar/lounge, adjacent dining room and outside patio. Prices range from $6 for a wood-fired grilled cheese with veggies or BLT to $24 for a rib eye. Most prices are in the teens. What I really liked was that base prices were low, but there were options to “upgrade.” For example, we could have added fried oysters to our fish and chips for an additional $6 or you could add pastrami-smoked salmon to the applewood-smoked bacon in the BLT for $3. Go tonight: The special is a fresh lobster roll, served warm or cold, for $13.

Oh, and there’s a mug club and sometimes evening entertainment. Yup, looks like this one’s a winner; i know we’ll return. Cheers!

Putting the FREE in Freeport

Free food. Free parking. Free activities. Free concert. All in Freeport, Maine. Really. No strings attached.

This weekend, June 21-22, L.L. Bean hosts a double header, and both events are free. The 27th annual Paddle Sports Festival takes place at the store’s Lower Flying Point Paddling Center. Park at the downtown store, then hop a free shuttle to the site.

Between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m., events include test-paddling kayaks and canoes, taking part in a GPS Techno Treasure Hunt (age limits), and kids craft sessions. Chow down at the–yes, free–oceanside cookout until 3 p.m. Who says there’s no such thing as a free lunch?. Listen to live bluegrass music from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Also available for a $29 fee (reservations recommended) are 90-minute kayak tours for ages 10 and older.

In the evening, the action switches to Bean’s Discovery Park, downtown, for a free concert by the swing band Big Bad Voodoo Daddy. Bring a blanket or chairs, and prepare to snag a prime spot early.

Sign of summer: Ice cream soda

Honest, I had the best of intentions. I stopped at Royal River Natural Foods, in Yarmouth, intending to get some lunch fixings, but the store was out of what I wanted, and the prepared sandwiches and soups didn’t float my boat. So, I took that as a sign from God that I should have ice cream for lunch. A little less than an hour later, I was enjoying my all-time fave, a chocolate ice cream soda from Round Top Ice Cream, in Damariscotta. Only instead of just chocolate ice cream, I had the ice cream girl make it with both chocolate and ginger. Then I sat on the back deck, squinting in the unexpected sunshine. Heaven!

Ever since I was a little kid, and my grandmother used to make me ice cream sodas, I’ve loved the combo of ice cream and club soda and chocolate syrup with a dash of cream. It’s an old fashioned treat, and few ice cream stands know how to make one anymore. But Round Top does. Not only that, it makes a really, really good one.

Now, I had my heart set on the ice cream soda, but I noticed that Round Top has jumped on the gelatto trend. It’s making its own, and there was a nice selection of flavors in a separate cooler, just inside the front door. Check it out.

Anyway, I think it was a healthful lunch. I mean c’mon, ginger represents a plant group, right? It must count as something in the USDA pyramid. As for my major food group, it combined three of what I consider necessities of life: chocolate, sugar and ice cream. And everyone knows club soda has no calories!

News and Snooze: Open, shut and in flux

In short: The Danforth and the Chebeague Island Inn are back; Atlantic Seal B&B is closed; West End Inn, Bear Mountain Inn and Newcastle Inn change hands.

The Danforth, located in a lovely John Calvin Stevens-designed mansion on Danforth Street, near the Victoria Mansion, has reopened. A guest there reported it’s again an elegant and gracious inn. Rooms are spacious and have luxury touches, such as robes and fireplaces. Breakfast is a Continental buffet. The gardens are lovely. Only quibble I have is that in the opening online promo, it advertises itself as being in the Old Port. Wrong. It’s on the city’s West End, an easy walk to the Old Port, but definitely not in the Old Port.

Another welcome back to the Chebeague Island Inn, accessible from Portland (1.5 hours) or Cousins Island, Yarmouth (15 minutes), via ferry. Renovated basement to attic in 2004, this old-time summer hotel closed last summer, but is now being leased with an option to buy. Also reopening is the dining room, as well as a lounge serving tapas and a “flambé ice cream” parlor.

And a sad farewell to Tom Ring’s Atlantic Seal B&B, which he operated in his family home on the water in South Freeport. I spoke with Tom earlier today, and he said the sheer volume of hotel rooms available in Freeport now did him in. Of course, it didn’t help that he’s a technophobe who didn’t own a computer, have a web site or use an answer phone. Tom’s still operating his excursion boat, with trips to Eagle Island and Seguin Island, and he promises to have someone manning his phone in another week or two. Before then, call in the early evening.

Back in Portland, the West End Inn Bed & Breakfast has changed hands, as have the Bear Mountain Inn, in Waterford, and The Newcastle Inn, in Newcastle. More on these after I’ve done some snooping.

Portland pig out

My foodie friend E visited Portland for a quick overnight, and I made it my mission to cover as many Portland food highlights as possible, between her arrival at 1:30 p.m. and my needing to hit the road by 8 a.m.

We began with French fries at Duckfat, crossed the street to peruse (and buy) books at Rabelais, grabbed a cookie (okay, three) at Two Fat Cats Bakery (part of the Fore Street empire), moseyed through Miccuci’s, then after checking in at the Portland Harbour Hotel, walked down to Browne Trading Co. to purchase a bottle of wine to accompany the herbed goat cheese from Painted Pepper Farm that E had purchased at the Bar Harbor Farmers Market.

Quick aside: Painted Pepper Farm, in Steuben, makes yogurt and goat cheese from its herd of Nigerian goats as well as organic maple syrup and granola. If you get the opportunity, taste these products. The yogurts are especially delicious, more in the European style, with quite a tang. The honey ginger and the maple cream are both exceptional; and the plain is simply lovely drizzled over fresh fruit. I’ve found it at farmers markets in the Acadia region as well as at health food stores in various locations, including Rising Tide, in Damariscotta, and Royal River, in Yarmouth.

After our wine and cheese, we tromped up to Five-Fifty-Five for a 6 p.m. reservation. Chef Steve Corry is one of Portland’s best; he’s been a James Beard nominee and he’s won Best New Chef distinction from Food & Wine. His menus are fresh, creative and fun, and the food is fabulous.

Although we’d originally considered the tasting menu (5 courses for $55–555, get it?), instead we created our own, sharing two small plates and two savory plates and a dessert, all accompanied by a nice Vouvray. Out first came a basket of sourdough bread and foccacia, with chive butter. I think that disappeared within five minutes, although we both had vowed not to fill up with bread.

Next came the small plates: First, wild smoked mackerel, with heritage bacon lardon, paprika deviled egg and radish frisee salad. This was a composed plate, with each component distinct. While the flavors of each stood out on their own, when blended, the result was sublime. Second was a braised veal shank tartlet made with fresh rosemary-scented chevre, flaky pastry crust, Fishbowl farm’s spicy greens and trio of spring onions. Oh my! This was so melt-in-the-mouth delish. Just thinking about it makes me smile and salivate.

For our savory plates, we chose 555’s renowned lobster mac and cheese–renowned for a reason. Corry once told me that he thinks of this as a winter dish, but every time he takes it off the menu, he has to bring it back due to demand. You bet I’ll demand it again, even if it’s 90 degrees and humid. A bit lighter, but no less delicious was the spring vegetable risotto. And while, yeah, it sounds like a carb-heavy meal with two starches, I’d order it all again.

After dinner, we waddled down Congress Street and strolled into Others, Brad McCurtain’s coffee/tea/sweets/gelato shop. Brad roasts his own coffee, makes the gelato, makes it a practice to employee those in need and donates all profits to local causes. And yeah, that gelato is mighty fine.

Before hitting the road home this morning, I introduced E to Becky’s for breakfast, which she cooed would become a must-stop whenever she’s in town. (and note: Becky’s now has a take out window open for late-night munchies–to 3 a.m.!). A quick return to Miccuci’s for some of baker Stephen Lanzalotta’s amazing bread, and my work was done, until next time–let’s see, Fore Street, Evangeline, Hugo’s, Cinque Terre, Ribolitta and–oh Portland has so many fine restaurants, and of course she must taste an Amato’s Italian and Little Lad’s popcorn and Norm’s mashed potatoes and…

Picnic in Freeport

Sure, you can have lunch or dinner in Freeport and fight for a seat amidst the shopping hordes–best bets are Mediterranean Grill, on School Street; Broad Arrow Tavern, in the Harraseekett Inn (about two blocks north of Bean’s mothership) and Azure, a stone’s throw north of Bean’s (I had a fabulous chicken wrap there, fresh, moist, delicious; seating is outdoors and inside on two levels). Or you can pray for a parking space at Harraseeket Lunch and Lobster, in South Freeport. OR, you can escape the crowds with a picnic.

Stop at Old World Gourmet (Route 1 by the Big Indian; you’ll know it when you see it) for fresh made sandwiches and salads or try Royal River Foods (Route 1, about a mile south of the exit 20 intersection), a natural foods store for premade sandwiches and salads (in the cooler to the far left as you enter the store). Now head for a park.

Freeport is wealthy with parklands. Closest to these two sandwich spots is Winslow Memorial Park, a town park with a sliver of beachfront–best at low tide; big grassy lawns, picnic tables under the trees and by the waterfront, a few trails and a playground. Plenty of space to let little ones run. Great place to watch the boat traffic in Casco Bay. Turn east at the Big Indian and follow signs.

Another waterfront choice is Wolfe’s Neck Woods State Park, off Lower Flying Point Road. Nice picnic grounds, both on a field and on the water. Even better, if you’re traveling with someone who has mobility issues, there’s a wheelchair accessible path along the waterfront to a spot overlooking an osprey’s nest; for the best view, bring binoculars. There also are hiking trails lacing the woods and shorefront.

Probably the least-busy option, but also free and with the fewest picnic tables and closest to downtown Freeport, is Maine Audubon’s Mast Landing Sanctuary, with trails snaking through the woods and an orchard.

After an hour or so at any of these, you’ll be recharged for shopping… or guaranteed a nice siesta with cool breezes and perhaps lapping water as background music.